Kyoto: Nijojo Castle

Our original Japan itinerary did not include Kyoto. We were planning to return to Tokyo for a couple of days after Hiroshima. However, after the earthquake, we thought it might be best to limit our time in Tokyo. We read in our guidebooks that Kyoto is quintessential Japan, so Kyoto it was. After spending a bit too long in Nishiki Market, we hightailed it to Nijojo Castle.

In Kyoto, we bought the one day bus pass. I couldn’t believe it when I saw a mom drop off a little girl (who did not look much older than k) at the bus stop to ride all by herself!
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Unfortunately, we were not able to spend much time in the castle, because we had reservations at 2:00 for the Imperial Palace tour. There were crowds of school kids that we had to squeeze our way through. No pictures were allowed inside, but the one thing I do remember is shuffling along in our socks on the “nightingale” floors. The floors were built to squeak in order to prevent enemies from quietly sneaking into the castle.

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By this time, the rain was pretty steady.
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The moat
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Lots o’ cherry blossoms
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I thought this umbrella-lock system was neat.
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Kyoto: Nishiki Market

Friday morning we said goodbye to my sis, K and j and took the shinkansen back up North to Kyoto.
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We ate a green tea muffin on the way. D wasn’t too keen on the red bean filling inside and there wasn’t much matcha flavor.
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After checking into our room (more on that later), we took the bus to Nishiki Market for lunch. The market is made up of a long, narrow street filled with various food vendors.
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Although probably made with tourists in mind, D wanted the tuna roll. There was a little wasabi inside, and D thought it was the best he has ever had.
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These fried balls were wrapped in bacon and smelled good. We asked what was inside and the woman said “onion”. We thought it was some sort of bread and bought one. Turned out it was fishcake! Not my favorite, though D managed to eat most of it.
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D’s co-worker had told him that he had to try takoyaki (ball-shaped dumplings with octopus). We passed by a takoyaki stall and a whole group of school kids were chowing down on them. D looked over the menu, and tried to ask the kids what the difference was between the three different choices.
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I think the kids were laughing at us when they saw our faces, as it was obvious that is was our first time. There was another couple from the UK that assured us that they were delicious, and that they loved them.

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They weren’t bad…I tried to think of it as calamari. However, I wasn’t too fond of the liquidy-chewiness of it all. I actually ate two, but then on my third one, I had a bite that was extremely fishy-tasting. I didn’t want to spit it out in front of everyone, so I managed to get it down. However, I was desperate to buy something else to get the taste out of my mouth.

The UK couple recommended that we get one of these next:
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Baby octopus on a stick! (Tastes like candy!) Um, I don’t think so.

Instead, we went for freshly fried kinako (soy flour) donuts with brown sugar and whipped cream.
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So good. And a good palate cleanser.

D tried some unagi (eel) on a stick.
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Grilled mochi dipped in a salty-sweet sauce.
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Freshly baked wasabi senbei (rice cracker) wrapped in nori.
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So, that was probably one of our more interesting eating adventures. We were ready for some more sightseeing.

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Miyajima Island: Part II

We stopped for a quick snack of momiji manju (maple leaf shaped cake with red bean filling). Miyajima is known for these, and there were tons of different shops selling them. The momiji manju machines were fascinating. We were able buy a couple of manju hot off the press.
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This place was cute. There was a tiny seating area, and they had free tea.

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There were two choices, skin on and skinless bean filling. I thought I would like skinless, but it turns out I like the texture of the skin on better.
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Other places had other fillings like chocolate and custard. There was also a place that sold deep fried momiji manju on a stick, which my sister and BIL tried.
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Hello Kitty Momiji Manju!
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Next we took the ropeway up Mt. Misen. We bought a one way ticket and planned to hike down.
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Whaddayouknow? Another pictorial map!
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I had read there were wild monkeys at the top of the mountain. These signs would certainly indicate that is the case.
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And my personal favorite:
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However, no monkeys were to be seen 🙁 There was a nice view of the Seto Inland Sea, however.
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We started the trek down and realized maybe it wasn’t such a good idea to do the one way trip. I especially felt bad for K, who had j on his back! Fortunately, it was not a hot day. After tons of stairs (some of which were a bit treacherous), we finally made it down the mountain. Someone told us it would take about an hour, and I think that was about how long it took!
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j was a trooper!
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Having worked up a good appetite, we were ready for lunch. We found a place serving Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, so we thought we should give it a try.
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Here is the front window display complete with a diagram and felt model. Love it!

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Unlike regular okonomiyaki, which has all of the ingredients all mixed up, Hiroshima-style is carefully cooked in layers. It takes some skillz!

The final result was delicious, all the more so because we were so hungry. We split two among the four of us.
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I also appreciated that they didn’t cover it in kewpie mayo as I have had on previous occasions. I think we have a new food truck concept!

After we finished, we saw a place selling Hiroshima buns right across the way, so we gave them a try too. Beef or conger eel? Beef, please.
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These were very hot, temperature-wise. I imagine they would be really good on a cold winter day.

To top it all off…one green tea soft serve. D really liked this one.
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Finally, we saw the world’s largest rice paddle:
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Impressive.

I think we returned back to my sister’s place around 3 p.m. My sister and I then headed back out for a brief visit to a nearby fabric store. (Very exciting, about five floors of sewing/craft supplies). My BIL showed us his Japanese cooking by making beef-rice bowls for dinner. Yum. Also, we learned that Lawson’s (a popular convenience store chain) makes a mean tiramisu. Who knew? We briefly considered going out on the town after dinner, but decided to take it easy. This was probably our most relaxed day of the trip, and we needed it.

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Miyajima Island: Part I

During our second full day in Hiroshima we went to Miyajima Island. It was about a half hour train ride and 10 minute boat ride.

Getting ready for our trip.
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Walking to the train station. There were tons of people riding bikes and walking around. Makes you realize why people in Japan are not overweight, on the whole.
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Saying goodbye to the mainland.
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Me and my sis
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It was a nice day
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A bit windy on the boat, though
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The “floating” Otorii greets you upon your arrival.
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There’s lots of free-roaming deer to greet you as well.
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D loves pictorial maps:
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Pagoda
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House of 1000 Tatami Mats that I think we paid 100 yen to enter (approx. $1.20)
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Turns out there was not actually 1000 tatami mats, but that it was the size of 1000 tatami mats.
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Nice view, though.
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They provide green rubber clogs for you to wear inside.
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Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
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There was a ceremony going on inside
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D spotted a crab outside
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We walked around the shore to get a better view of the Otorii gate
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D in deep contemplation
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My sister does a better job of talking about the historical/cultural facts in her blog (and they have better pictures, with their fancy camera, too). You can read her take on this part of our trip here.

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Hiroshima: Hondori & Home

After the Peace Park, the plan was for D and I to shop a little on nearby Hondori Street, and meet up with K, S & j for dinner. I was able to go to Kiddyland, Daiso and Muji, all of which I had been to in Tokyo, but I didn’t feel as rushed. I liked how things felt more compact in that there is just one main street.
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There is also a Mister Donut!!
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We were told that we had to try the “Pon de Ling” (actually spelled “Pon de Ring”). It looks like a ring of donut holes (hence the name) but it is unique because it has a slight mochiko chew to it.

For dinner we ate at Mos Burger, another place I was looking forward to trying.
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D had the regular hamburger. The verdict was that it was good, but small. It looks big here due to the lettuce. The fries were burn-your-fingers-hot.

I tried the rice burger with beef. Instead of a bun, there are two rice patties.
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Not the most appetizing picture, I know. It was good, but messy. If I were to go again I would probably try the rice burger with a regular patty. My mom sent me an article talking about a restaurant that combines Mos Burger/Mister Donut called “MosDo”. I guess we did our own MosDo outing even though we had to make two different stops.

Since we left room for dessert (ha!), we walked back to Andersen’s bakery. We bought a few things for breakfast the next day and admired the displays.
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Hiroshima bread, which according to my sister, is very good.

However, the one thing we had to try, according to her, was the sakura (cherry blossom) gelato. (Or was it ice cream? I’m not sure). She even treated us to the cone, as if we needed any convincing!
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I think this made up for D’s missing the Starbucks sakura latte. It had a subtle cherry flavor with a floral background, if that makes any sense. It is really difficult to describe, but very refreshing. There are even flecks of cherry blossom leaves in it.

We also made another stop at the Loft, which proved difficult to find. We walked back to my sister’s place before dark. I took some pictures of their place to get a sense of their living arrangement. Hopefully they don’t mind me posting them!

Their apartment is actually the same size as our house. They have a nice view of a river and a balcony.
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A large living area
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Connected to a dining area
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Different angle
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They also brought their cat over to Japan, but since D and I are allergic to cats, we kept our distance. However, I only had to take 1 Benadryl the first night and I was fine for the rest of our stay!

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Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum

After the Mazda tour, we ate at Chikara, which was recommended by one of D’s co-workers. (Others laughed when D told them the recommendation, but the recommender knew we were on a budget). Turns out that a few of the other people on our tour had the same idea. The food was simple, but good. We had udon and bought a roll of futomaki to go.

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After returning to Hiroshima station, my sis and her family went back home while D and I caught the trolley to the Peace Memorial Park and Museum.

At the entrance we saw this memorial with water bottles, which I believe were in honor of the earthquake/tsunami victims.
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The A-Bomb Dome, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
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This was a chilling reminder of the destruction that this city experienced.

Children’s Peace Monument
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There were tons of school kids on field trips that day.

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I thought these bush-trees were interesting:
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Peace Flame
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The flame has burned continuously since it was lit in 1964, and will remain lit until all nuclear bombs on the planet are destroyed and the planet is free from the threat of nuclear annihilation. (-Wikipedia)

Peace Memorial Hall
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No pictures were allowed inside and admission is free. It feels modern and somber at the same time.

Our last stop in the park was the actual Peace Memorial Museum.
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The exhibits were educational and well done. Talking it over with my sister, we were struck by how the people of Hiroshima do not just see themselves as helpless victims. Instead, they continue to take an active role in seeking to end the possession/use of nuclear weapons around the world. For example, the current mayor of Hiroshima writes a letter to the president of foreign countries each time they engage in nuclear weapons testing, pleading with them to stop (there were copies of all of the letters on display). The whole topic seemed more relevant with the current reminder that even nuclear power that is used for good (energy) can be very dangerous.

After the museum, D bought an iced coffee from a vending machine and we sat down on a bench. A couple of school kids on a field trip approached us and asked if they could practice their English with us. They asked us our names, our favorite animals, etc., and they told us theirs. Then they asked us where wer were from and told us to put a sticker to mark the location on their map. They had a lot of stickers, but we were the first ones from the United States. This was consistent with our observations, since we didn’t run into too many Americans during our trip, except at Narita when we were going home. D, who likes to start conversations with strangers, ended up talking to people from the UK and Canada, but no Americans. Anyway, back to the story, the kids gave us a couple of origami bookmarks as a present. Very sweet.

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Mazda Museum & Factor Tour

It was so nice to be able to stay at my sister’s place for three nights.

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We had our own room (this was actually bigger than our room in Kyoto, if you can believe it). The built in storage (which they have in all of the rooms) was nice.

Internet access…yes!
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We were able to skype with my parents and the kids.

Even a hot breakfast…yum!
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I think my nephew wanted some too.
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We had reservations for the English language tour at 10:00 a.m. D was able to visit some co-workers with my BIL while my sister, her son, and I waited in the lobby.

Slick.
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I actually didn’t notice that j had cars on his shirt until just now. How appropriate.
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The Mazdas in Japan go by different names. For example, the Mazda6 is called the “Atenza”.
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Our tour guide was very informative. I was impressed with the long spiels she had memorized. The (unintentionally) funniest part was when we were riding on a bus, and she noted that the bridge we were passing was “…one of the longest in the world…(dramatic pause)…owned by a company.” (No pictures were allowed on the bus).

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The old logo.
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Funky interior.
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This car won the Le Mans 24 hour race.
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New employees were taking a tour, too.
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Crash test.
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Cars of the future.
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Future driver.
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The best part was at the end, when were able to see the actual production line. I was surprised at how close we were able to be to the action. The combination of robotics and human skill was amazing to watch. It really made you think about how much work goes into making a car.

As a side note, I got a good chuckle out of this sign.
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Hiroshima…Here We Come

After stopping by the hotel to pick up our bags, we headed back out to catch the shinkansen to Hiroshima. Our departing station was Shinagawa, which felt very new and modern. We left enough time to grab some dinner since we would be on the train for around five hours. I picked up an ekiben (bento made for train stations) with a variety of little nibbles.
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D is not a fan of bentos since he likes his food hot. Therefore, he had spring rolls, which are supposed to be cold, along with some other goodies.

This is the mocha bun that I brought along from Johan.
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A single coffee bean capped the light and airy top, and inside was a moist mocha filling. I’ve never had anything like it before.

I was concerned about catching the correct train, but it was not a problem. Hyperdia had told us which platform to wait on, and our transfer went smoothly.
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All the trains were right on time. I read somewhere that the average delay over the last year was around 30 seconds!

Even though eating is allowed (and encouraged…they sell food on the train), the trains are very clean. They do a thorough cleaning job between routes.
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The train conductors and the women selling snacks all bow to the occupants of the car of the train upon entering and leaving.

D pointed out Mt. Fuji when we passed by. I would have probably missed it. (It doesn’t appear this close…I zoomed in).
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Sunset.

It was a nice, relaxing ride. I especially appreciated being off my feet for five hours after all the walking. My brother in law K was able to pick us up at the station just before 9 p.m. We chatted with my sister and K for a bit and had our first good, full night’s sleep.

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